CASA MARIN : A 40 MINUTE CONVER-TASTING WITH JAMIE VERBRAAK

CASA MARIN ::::::::::: Crazy for Cool Climate!

This entry was written and composed whilst enjoying a Rabl 2013 Gruner Veltliner 'Langenlois' Kamptal DAC Austria and listening to a Jay Dee aka J-Dilla interview with Gilles Peterson from Feb 2001 commemorating his death anniversary and birthday. 

the conversation: w/ Jamie Verbraak - commercial manager

Jamie Verbraak - Commercial Manager for Casa Marín

It was nearly a year and half ago that I was introduced to the wines of Casa Marin. A colleague of mine, Mr. Ian Thresher had recently been on a wine tour of Chile and shortly after his return to Canada he placed a private order for several of their wines. The purchase Included a wine of remarquable character  this wine being 'the' Syrah from the Miramar Vineyards of Lo Abarca. The wine was enchanting. Along with their Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Sauvignon Gris these wines had a purity and brightness of fruit that is 'Chile' at its best, but these wines had a precision that reflected the passion and drive of their maker Maria Luz Marin. 

Maria Luz Marin is Chile's first Lady of wine, the nation's first female wine maker and the first female to own a winery in a rather male dominated industry. She was and still is at the vanguard of cool climate Chilean wines and boy do we love 'cool climate wines'! In fact shortly after her first vintage of 2003 under her Casa Marin label she received acclaime as the top producer of Chilean white wines!

She has accomplished all that she has in the face of a wine hierarchy that is dominated by massive brands and by companies that are not directly related to wine. I was informed that about 60% of the wineries in Chile are owned by approximately 40 large national or international companies. To clarify  - I can make no factual claim in this statement but I can understand the 'new world winery' business model and the investment that is needed in order to compete on the world market. Though private sector investment and corporate management is one way of doing things the Casa Marin story set's it apart from the rest. 

Maria Luz Marin, started her winemaking career in the 70's and into the 90's gathered momentum by building the 3rd largest producer of bulk wine in Chile, wines that would be used for blending and for supermarket brands in the domestic and european  markets. But....She had a higher calling and would be inspired to make 'great' wines with her talent and drive, but where? 

Lo Abarca in the 90's 

One of Maria's oldest childhood memories was of taking family vacations to the coast. The destination would be on the other side of the San Antonio Valley towards the ocean and the route would take them through an area called Lo Abarca. Lo Abarca is known for superior agriculture products and produce. As a child she would notice the temperature change and coolness as the family car travelled through various elevations towards their destination. As an adult knowing that she wanted to create unique wines, where would that be, and it was a childhood memory that would direct her back to Lo Abarca. Everyone thought she was crazy, it was too cold, the soils were too fertile. It would be folly, it would be financial suicide. Bah! She withdrew investments from her bulk wine company and bought, at auction, vineyard and land over various plots in Lo Abarca and set off to make her own wines as the first Chilean woman to found an independent winery. In 1999/2000 she planted vineyards and in 2003 she released her first wines that would prove to silence critics and nay-sayers.

CASA MARIN is

• 46 hectares.
• planted to Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris for white grapes and Syrah and Pinot Noir for red grapes ( with a new project focusing on Grenache).
• wines are sourced from 63 different vineyard plots.
• 80% of the vineyards are located in the hills of Lo Abarca on various micro-climates at elevations that range from 100 feet to 500 feet above sea level.
• soils range from loam to granite with sand and limestone with marine deposits in the flatter vineyards. 
• the maritime terroir is one of the coolest and closest to the coast,  though this cool the region benefits from a long season with an early and long spring and rather consistent and moderated temperature throughout the year.

Maria Luz is now assisted by her son Felipe, who has recently graduated from school of viticulture and oenology and has returned home from working in New Zealand. He is also spearheading a project focused on Grenache from vineyards that are farmed with biodynamic and natural applications. The results of which are fascinating and engaging the palates of some of the most astute critics and wine writers around the world.  

Casa Marin is the epitome of cool climate wines from the ever evolving wine world of Chile

the tasting:

Sauvignon Blanc 'Cartagena' 2013 : Cartagena is the Casa Marin entry level series of wines. They are most certainly pleasant and drinkable. Those who love Sauvignon in the riper fruit context and those studying Chilean Sauv Blanc will delight in the purity of flavour and complexity of expression. They are using a French Clone for this wine coming from one of their top vineyard sights, which helps explain certain complexity in flavour. From poor soils and a warm site this wine is a pleaser 

Sauvignon Blanc 'Cipresses' Casa Marin 2013: is the ultimate expression of the Casa Marin Sauvignon Blanc vision. The wines is made from smaller but better quantity of grapes per hectare coming from the vineyard. They are using a UC Davis 1 clone with cold maceration over 18hours with 3 weeks of lees contact. The wine sees 5% of oak but is barely felt if any on the palate. Think asparagus, sweet corn, and savoury and earthy notes with a sweet pea to creamy pea soup feel. Honestly Sauvignon Blanc is not my first choice but I find these wines to be precise, focused and made with the utmost care. 

Sauvignon Gris 'Estero' Casa Marin 2013 : is a unique creature indeed. Sourced from an old clone from Pessac Leognan in Bordeaux that never re-emerged after phylloxera as it was not considered profitable as a grape. Maria Luz felt this would be the exact grape to hold a place in her stable of white wines. The wine is made from spontaneous fermentation with 70% of the wine aged in 2/3 times used barrels with 30% rested in steel. To taste this wine think, grass, herbs, young green shoots, to leeks and chives, with texture and natural sweetness, though it is a dry wine. Lemon Thyme and Lemon Balm, but I may be reaching here. The palate is fresh and spiced with white pepper, round and pleasing. I fun wine for the student and the connoisseur. 

Pinot Noir 'Cartegena' 2013 : the first of their entry level Pinot Noir, think lean, fresh and spiced red berry. A pleasant balance of cool climate pinot character - fragrant, meaty, savoury with fruit that is dry versus sweet. Clocking in at 14% alcohol, it is impressive that the wine is so lean. 

Pinot Noir ' Litoral Vineyards' 2013 : is an example of their top tier production. The wine is high toned, peppered and savoury with nice red fruit. Really a balance of fruit and the savoury quality of Pinot Noir at it's best. Lush, Plush, mineral with a smokey and pleasant finish. A must have for PInot that should be ready to drink in the next 2-5 years. 

Viñedos Lo Abarca - a new series of wines  

Garnacha/Syrah 'Viñedos Lo Abarca No. 3 2013 : this is the Casa Marin new generation of wines made by Felipe, Maria Luz's son. He represents the new generation of wine makers focusing on wines made closer to natural and biodynamic principles. They planted grenache in 2011 and this is first presentation of the wine. 1800 bottles, 2 years in  barrel. The wine is killer! Think North Rhone, think Gigondas with a 20-30% blend of Syrah that takes the wine into a whole new level. The wine is of a sweet berry profile, with freshness and vibrancy, white and black pepper, a textured and pleasant mouthfeel. Can you tell that I really enjoyed this wine. Get some when they get here! Please!